101 guide to Tanning Regime

Originally Posted by paulyeoh

Thanks bro kage... I'm sure you're kinda bored answering individual questions from newbies like me.

So once and for all... thanks!!!

two questions..

does background colour and bottom colour have any effect on tanning??

What about putting a strip of mirror (or reflective) on the background so you get tanning from both sides with one light? Would that work?

background color does affect the tanning process or should I rather say the background influences the ability of the red to develop coloration earlier

just like white background are used for XB, black backgrounds are suitable for reds --> dun try RED I using it...not beneficial

pasting a mirror is one thing I never tried but its should be workable --> tats a good suggestion to offset the problem of slant swimming posture

thks man

so shifumaru...in a short summary... just make sure water is rite, then can use the correct lights 2 push liow rite?

very informative for noobies like me...

[winkelhock]

Master u forgot to teach them how to get rid of algae and green water when tanning...

Originally Posted by winkelhock

Master u forgot to teach them how to get rid of algae and green water when tanning...

yes sir!

Like I mentioned earlier,

Algae and green water occurs due to excessive nitrates and nutrients in the water...

solve the problem of overfeeding will solve ur green water problem

normally I feed 80% of normal input amount during tanning experiment...its also better cos reds will not fall sick easily after a spate of rains

Originally Posted by newbird^

so shifumaru...in a short summary... just make sure water is rite, then can use the correct lights 2 push liow rite?

very informative for noobies like me...

water like Vil said before its crucial...but with just gd water is not sufficient to push the color "artificially"

[winkelhock]

Originally Posted by kagemaru

yes sir!

Like I mentioned earlier,

Algae and green water occurs due to excessive nitrates and nutrients in the water...

solve the problem of overfeeding will solve ur green water problem

normally I feed 80% of normal input amount during tanning experiment...its also better cos reds will not fall sick easily after a spate of rains

For me i only feed 50% or less each day or else they will always be in daze or laze after feeding.Also to reuduce nutrients to water...

Originally Posted by winkelhock

For me i only feed 50% or less each day or else they will always be in daze or laze after feeding.Also to reuduce nutrients to water...

u just reduce the water agitation and wala...ur color will come back...no need to worry

Originally Posted by kagemaru

Part 5: Additives and special tools

Ketapang leaves - these are needed in terms of the initial kick start process as the tanins within the leaves will slowly emit and allow the readjustment of the water parameters to one tat favours the reds

S7 - commonly used in the planted community together with TR7 so as to provide trace elements in the enclosed tank. This is also common with those trying to enhance the appetite of the reds (reds being picky eaters will be choosy and temperaments changes as they grow)

Bubbles - is used as general guide on how the tank water fares...too much foam on the water level is an indicative sign of potentially bad water...suspended sediments or particles likewise

Epsom Salt - Initial clinical use is to assist the fish to clear their stomach...it is also helpful in regeneration of slim coat on the scales...should not be used excessively...only when there are suspected "dryness" on the scales observed

I am interested to know why too much bubles indicates bad water? pls teach ooo mighty 1

Originally Posted by winkelhock

I dun even know what is agitation...

erm..means ur water must be calm...cannot have like hurricane katrina kinda movements in water and surface.

Originally Posted by liquidnoise

I am interested to know why too much bubles indicates bad water? pls teach ooo mighty 1

OMG...mai hai wa...

bubbles by itself is just a airbubbles enveloped by the surrounding water...once they reached the surface, it will have no more "coating" from the water to sustain its bubble shape --> this we call the "breaking Up"

if the water is saturated with Total Dissolved Solids, it will become more sticky...just like soapy water used to play bubbles...why the bubbles are able to stretched into a bigger shape by joining one another is the existence of the proteins or "oils" from ur feed...this oil will stretched out and hold the shape

hence when we see the amount of bubbles cumulating, its also meaning ur "dissolved" waste level is increasing

Hope I make it clear in my illustration