ich problem

[FireSpitter]

Originally Posted by amiidae

As highlighted in bold. May I know where do you guys get such info ?

Excerpt taken from:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius

Heat treatment
Heat treatment can be highly effective, and it can be combined with other treatments.
The three phases of the ichthyophthirius life-cycle (Adult, Cyst, Free swimming) take about 4 weeks at 21 °C (70 °F) to complete but only 5 days at 27 °C (80 °F). For this reason it is recommended that the aquarium water be raised to 28-30 °C (82-86 °F) for the duration of the treatment. Avoid fast temperature changes; water temperature should be raised or reduced gradually 0.5-1 °C (1-2 °F) per day. There are species of fish that will not tolerate the high end of temperatures needed to be effective. If the fish can stand it, raise the temperature even higher, up to 30 °C (86 °F). Raising the temperature also, presumably, reduces and kills the free swimming parasite. It is important to remember that raising the temperature higher, but not high enough so that the parasite is killed, should be used in conjunction with some sort of medication. The heat speeds up the life cycle of the ichthyophthirius, which is useful if the fish is being medicated, because otherwise the parasites simply reproduce at a faster rate, and kill the aforementioned fish quicker. Temperatures at or above 30 °C (86 °F) are generally considered to be fatal to ich^[2]

[amiidae]

Originally Posted by FireSpitter

Excerpt taken from:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius

Heat treatment
Heat treatment can be highly effective, and it can be combined with other treatments.
The three phases of the ichthyophthirius life-cycle (Adult, Cyst, Free swimming) take about 4 weeks at 21 °C (70 °F) to complete but only 5 days at 27 °C (80 °F). For this reason it is recommended that the aquarium water be raised to 28-30 °C (82-86 °F) for the duration of the treatment. Avoid fast temperature changes; water temperature should be raised or reduced gradually 0.5-1 °C (1-2 °F) per day. There are species of fish that will not tolerate the high end of temperatures needed to be effective. If the fish can stand it, raise the temperature even higher, up to 30 °C (86 °F). Raising the temperature also, presumably, reduces and kills the free swimming parasite. It is important to remember that raising the temperature higher, but not high enough so that the parasite is killed, should be used in conjunction with some sort of medication. The heat speeds up the life cycle of the ichthyophthirius, which is useful if the fish is being medicated, because otherwise the parasites simply reproduce at a faster rate, and kill the aforementioned fish quicker. Temperatures at or above 30 °C (86 °F) are generally considered to be fatal to ich^[2]

Interesting read. but the temperature killing ich thingy don't seen to work as I raised my tank water temperature above 30C (33.2C to be exact).

The Ich problem is clearing only when I have added medication.

Do you see white spots on your fish? If there's white spots, you can use Methylene Blue from Interpet with 1 tablespoonful of non-iodide salt per 5 gallons of water and raising temperature to 30 degrees. Better if 32 degrees. Remember to raise aeration preferrably with few airstone at full blast. Water change of 50-70% to be perform on 3rd day and replenish back the salt and MB. Should clear within a weeks. This treatment is the least stressful especially to rays.
If there is signs of white spots, your fish are having gills/ body flukes. Its due to poor water quality, feeder fishes, stress due to overcrowding, raise of temp. The best way is to use Formalin 30-37% + Malachite Green. Add 1ml of stock solution per 10 gal of water for 24 hour treatment. Alternatively, you can use 1ml per 1 gallon for 30 mins bath for severe infestation (fish at the bottom lifelessly or hanging at water surface). However this treatment if not tolerated by rays, loaches etc.

[FireSpitter]

Originally Posted by amiidae

Interesting read. but the temperature killing ich thingy don't seen to work as I raised my tank water temperature above 30C (33.2C to be exact).

The Ich problem is clearing only when I have added medication.

You'll have to try prolonged periods (7 to 12 days), becos of the quick life cycle where they reproduce eggs just before they die off. Whilst in the past, I med everytime there was a problem, my next challenge in fish keeping is keeping them healthy 99% of the time. If there was really a bacterial/parasitical problem, depending on the severity, I will try resisting meds unless absolutely necessary.

Temperatures at or above 30 °C (86 °F) are generally considered to be fatal to ich[2]

Think this opinion seems to have been repeated in a few forums. I'm not sure if it is accurate, but it is something that has not been recommended by the gurus in fish diseases. I guess at higher temps, any organism can go, and this includes the fishes as well, so do be cautious if one chooses to use temperature solely to get rid of ich as some fishes may not be too tolerant of high temperatures, frontosas and gibbs are one of them. The other thing to note when raising temp is to increase aeration by adding airstones or using a pump blowing the surface of the water.

Heat is often recommended as a way to shorten the life cycle of the parasite so that it can be killed by med or salt.

[amiidae]

Originally Posted by Spakase

Think this opinion seems to have been repeated in a few forums. I'm not sure if it is accurate, but it is something that has not been recommended by the gurus in fish diseases. I guess at higher temps, any organism can go, and this includes the fishes as well, so do be cautious if one chooses to use temperature solely to get rid of ich as some fishes may not be too tolerant of high temperatures, frontosas and gibbs are one of them. The other thing to note when raising temp is to increase aeration by adding airstones or using a pump blowing the surface of the water.

Heat is often recommended as a way to shorten the life cycle of the parasite so that it can be killed by med or salt.

yes, I totally agree and share some hands on .. esp. that part highlighted in bold.

and not "heat kill ich"

The books I use for reference are: Noga, Wilhelm Schaperclaus, and the beloved Dieter Untergasser. Believe you can't find any better gurus than these three.