|
02-05-2003, 10:02 AM | #31 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Hi Arrowana Boi,
As I'm now in the office, and not convenient to read thru all other postings, I have 1 question in mind. My apology if this question was raised earlier by other bros and sis. My tank is in the cycling process. It's into Day 10 today. There are 8 silver$, 4 Thai Tiger (slightly more than 1"), and 4 Borneo suckers (about 1"). The water in the tank is quite crowdy. Is this normal? Water parameter are: pH 6.5 Ammonia 5mg/l Nitrite & Nitrate have not tested yet Do you have any idea why my tank water is crowdy, and any way to improve on the situation? Thanks for your patience Rgds Kwong Hui |
03-05-2003, 05:26 AM | #32 | |
Dragon
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 722
|
Quote:
Day 10 into cycling a virgin tank without any seedings means that its still in its rather early stages. The cloudy tank is very very normal dont worry. Its a sign of BB bloom. Ammonia reading of 5mg/l is considered quite high. But dont worry jus let the water cycle on. Its all part and parcel. If u change water and change water theh the bloom will not only not go away, but will also extend the whole cycling process. If u wanna change water, do so after the first 2 weeks of cycle. Do 10% will do. Hence on, u might contd do the 10% once a week but its really not very neccessary yet. Jus bear with it and let the cloudyness go on, it will go away as soon as everything is quite settled. When the cycle completes then change about 20% water and everything will be set. Good Luck |
|
03-05-2003, 05:49 AM | #33 | |
Dragon
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 722
|
Re: To Arowana Boi
Quote:
About the nitrate thing, heheh, who noes, u might have accidentally set up a colony of anaerobic BB that breaks down nitrate , or did u put in plants in ur tank? Plants will absorb the nitrate. Anyway now that ur tank is settled and once everything is running smoothly with all the bio load, i think the nitrate will go up again. |
|
03-05-2003, 01:10 PM | #34 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Quote:
Despite having exam, you still logon to reply to the forum message. Thank you so much. Wishing you all the best for your coming exam. I will let the water remain as it is, and not change it till the cycle completes. Water parameter today is: pH 6.5 kH > 3d gH > 6d NO2 1 NO3 10 >1 Ammonia <5 Thanks Kwong Hui Last edited by kwonghui; 03-05-2003 at 02:08 PM. |
|
05-05-2003, 04:38 PM | #35 | |
Dragon
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 722
|
Quote:
Attached are pics of how Ehfi Substat and Bio Home looks like: EHFISUBSTRAT To create biologically sound water as found in nature, you need EHFISUBSTRAT. Biological filtering is based on a natural decomposition of harmful substances using helpful bacteria. They convert ammonia and nitrite into relatively non-toxic nitrate. The efficiency of biological filtration is limited by the media that bacteria are growing on. With over 450 ml per litre (22, 000sq. ft. per lmp. gal. / 18, 3000 sq. ft. per U.S. gal.) EHFISUBSTRAT is a specially designed sintered glass. Bacteria are able to stick better to a surface which has a complex pore system. EHFISUBSTRAT has been specially developed to offer optimum sites for bacteria colonization. The effectiveness of these bacteria is linked to how much oxygen and toxins can flow by. With faster decomposition of toxins compared to other media. Highly effective, economically priced, it is the best biological media available to aquarium hobbyists. Bio-home The red one is supposedly to have a higher surface area compared to ehfi substrat. This link is all about Biohome product. http://www.aqua-bio.com/en/biohome/ Happy choosing and hope i have given u enuff materials and info to satisfy ur needs Last edited by Arrowana Boi; 05-05-2003 at 04:48 PM. |
|
07-05-2003, 05:41 PM | #36 |
Dragon
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 722
|
The first water change will not clear up entirely so dont expect too much
As for the substrat, since u are using a sump tank, can actually use 3/4 or even all of it if u want from the large box of the media and that will be very very good bio filtration. When the tank matures confirm can keep the water quality very good |
22-05-2003, 05:36 PM | #37 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
temperature n lighting
Hi Arrowana Boi
Read your article with great interest. Very educational and pratical. Thanks alot. Something come to my mine and there are: 1. Is there any concern as to whether the OH filter is exposed to sunlight. If so, then how much is acceptable. U/stand that biohome works best with no or little sunlight. 2. What temperature range is acceptable for the BB to grow well. You also mentioned that ammonia burns causes "sotong barbels". How to cure it. |
12-06-2003, 06:46 PM | #38 | |
Dragon
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 722
|
Re: temperature n lighting
Quote:
1. OH filters are best situated in places that does not get too much direct sunlight for a prolong period, i understand that the UV rays are rather harmful to these micro organisms and they prefer places thats dark, cool and has a rather stable temperature. One of my pesonal experience is that the the filter box will get algae growth on it. And even my bio filtering material like the sintered glass and bio-rings also have got algae growth which chokes the pores present on those media and prevent the BB from clinging on or establishing on the medias properly. So the best is to put ur OHF away from places that gets exposed to direct sunlight for too long a period. 2. There isnt any fix temperature ranges but i would say that they can thrive in most conditions/temperatures as long as it doesnt fluctuate too wildly. Its jus like water in the arctic which is damn cold will depend on the BB for their natural filtration to some extend and BB present in some lakes or pond thats have temperature in the high twenties are also having BB to do filtration. So dont worry too much about temperatures, jus make sure that it doesnt swing wildly will do Hmmmm as for "sotong barbels" the most extreme u can do is to perform surgery to cut them off jus above the root tip and let a new one grow out. But jus becareful not to cut too low and snip off the root area cos that will mean that the barbel is as good as gone. |
|
15-06-2003, 08:14 AM | #39 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Suggestion to shorten your cycle time and have a "SAFE" dieseas free tank.
Add gravel in when you notice presence of nitrite. The additional surface area will give the nitro-bacteria more room to germinate and grow, no need to compete for space with the nitrosomonas bacteria. Dun use feeder fish to kick start the ammonia process, why not use market prawn. I realised that market prawn when left uneaten in the tank produces lots of ammonia, some more it is safe no BAD disease bacteria to infect your prize fish later. You want more ammonia, throw in more market prawn. Check your ammonia reading, sure super super high one. Finally for all bros with PH problem why not try ADA aquasoil. It will maintain your PH level at 6.0 for the 1st year and then 6.5 after that. Dun have to worry about tank maturing and the PH crashing down. Learned this from some of the bros in the planted tank section. Last edited by Sryder; 15-06-2003 at 08:21 AM. |
15-06-2003, 09:40 PM | #40 |
Dragon
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 722
|
HI bro thank you for ur suggestions.
About the use of market prawns instead of feeder fishes for the cycling process have already been mentioned in one of the pages in this thread. As for the use of gravel and/or soil, most of the bros here would prefer their tank to be bare for optimum cleanliness thus they dont really wanna use any other things in their tank such as gravel and soil unless they have a planted aro tank concept. But of cos i do know of quite a few bros who does lay a very thin layer of soil on the tank surface for either reflection cutting purposes, their rays, or jus to beautify. But this thin layer of gravel will have very little sites either for the nitro bactors or nitrosomonas. But to a certain extent it does help in speeding up the cycling process. Thank You for ur suggestions anyway |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|